How to Prepare House Plants for Winter: 8 Helpful Tips

 How to Prepare House Plants for Winter: 8 Helpful Tips

At the end of autumn, flowers need to be prepared for climate change, which will entail a different care regime for them. Short daylight hours, a decrease in the humidity of the surrounding space, a change in temperature - all this negatively affects the flowers, therefore, the methods of caring for them are changing.

Don't forget to check them for pests.

In winter, it is undesirable to disturb flowers that are in a dormant period. Therefore, in the fall, it is necessary to audit the entire room flora for the presence of pests and diseases. Discovered sick or pest-infected plants are placed in a separate room, treated with insecticides or fungicides. In advanced cases, a transplant with a complete replacement of the substrate may be required. Flowers can be returned to their permanent place no earlier than two weeks after treatment in the absence of pests or signs of disease.

It's time to cut back on watering

Many flowers have a dormant period at the end of autumn, during which watering is reduced. If there is heat in the room due to hot radiators, then the irrigation mode must be adjusted. Between watering, the earthen lump should dry out, but its complete drying out is unacceptable. For watering plants, use raw, settled water at room temperature. Filtered or boiled liquid cannot be used for this purpose. For some plants, watering should be canceled altogether - tuberous begonias and gloxinias, calla lilies and calladiums should be in a period of complete dormancy at the end of flowering.

Choosing a different place for them

In the summer, because of the scorching rays of the sun, many representatives of the indoor flora "moved" from the southern windowsills to the western and northern ones. The end of autumn is the time for the return of flowers to the south side. Despite the dormant period, plants in winter need an abundance of sunlight. If possible, the temperature regime of the flora should also be changed. In many plants, buds are laid during the period of its drop, therefore, after a hot summer, they need an average daily temperature of +18 ° C. A cool sunny bedroom or greenhouse is ideal for wintering.

Reducing food

In preparation for winter, feeding indoor plants should be reduced. During the period of active growth and flowering, fertilizers need to be applied weekly. In late autumn and winter, to maintain a dormant period, it is enough to feed the flowers every two weeks. Nutrients are poorly absorbed during the short daylight hours; salts accumulating in the substrate can “poison” the plant.

Wipe the leaves regularly with a damp cloth or sponge

Due to the increased dryness of the air, plants lose the necessary moisture. Dust particles settle on the leaves, which make it difficult to absorb air and moisture during irrigation. To neutralize the negative impact of these processes, it is enough to wipe the leaves with a sponge or napkin dipped in water once every two days.

Sprinkle leaves and stems with spray water

Heaters and radiators, bringing warmth to the apartments, take the necessary humidity from the air. To neutralize the negative impact, indoor flowers are periodically irrigated from a spray bottle or arrange a cool shower for them. But not all flowers need such care - saintpaulias, gloxinias, because of the special structure of their leaves, do not like irrigation. For such plants, it is better to choose another method of increasing the humidity, for example, periodically pour water into a tray with expanded clay between waterings. A humidifier will be an ideal option for increasing the humidity in the apartment.

Keep away from frozen windows and heat sources

Indoor flowers do not respond well to sudden changes in temperature. For them, both cold and excessive heat can be destructive. A drop in temperature to +12 ° C causes the death of even an unpretentious Coleus, so you need to keep flowers away from freezing windows. The hot air from the radiators causes the pot to heat up, dry out the soil, and heat up the root system, which can kill the plants. The lack of the necessary temperature difference between summer and winter periods can negatively affect the budding process, that is, the flowering period may not come.

We carry out pruning of home plants

In order for the plants to start sprouting in the coming spring, they need to be cut off in the fall. This rule applies to hibiscus, passionflower, nightshade and other flowers. When pruning, you need to remove all branches growing inside the plant, weak, lifeless growth, which in winter will only select the necessary strength. When the cold period approaches, these flowers lose some of their foliage, but in the spring the green mass grows again. Pruning can be done with pruning shears or garden shears. If the flora is properly prepared for wintering, then in spring the plants will be healthy, ready to bloom and further growth. In winter, flower growers organize additional lighting for their pets, which guarantees the flowering of some plants throughout the winter (for example, violets).

How to prepare indoor plants for winter: tips from Elena Kostrova, a collector of rare plants

The popular expression "prepare the sled in the summer" in the case of indoor plants is only partially true - their main preparation for winter falls on the autumn months. How responsibly you approach the task depends on how indoor plants will survive the difficult cold period for them.

Autumn is the time to start preparing indoor plants for winter. After a summer stay on the street, many of them have grown the root system, have grown noticeably, and the previous containers are no longer suitable for them.

Preparing ornamental shrubs and garden plants for winter

The main methods of maintenance consist of ensuring atmospheric humidity, the amount of water entering the soil and ensuring the correct temperature. Lighting is one of the main conditions. There are those that will grow remarkably in aggressive environments - even at home on an open windowsill. Understanding which family the plant belongs to, it is correct to provide the necessary care. All known flowers are divided into groups. Others can be kept strictly in the garden. Some species can only be bred at home without a street.

Tips for preparing garden plants and shrubs for wintering

Before the beginning of winter, the main task of every gardener is to prepare ornamental shrubs for winter, since they, first of all, need protection from any frost and frost.

Of course, there are some plants that tolerate winter well, they only need to be covered with fallen leaves. But young seedlings are especially sensitive to low temperatures, so they need to be provided with reliable protection.

As for wild roses and rose hips, they tolerate frost well, which cannot be said about cultivated varieties of roses. Frosts have a very detrimental effect on cultivated varieties, in addition, you need to be afraid of waterlogging during thaws. Therefore, they need to ensure good wintering:

As for the roses.

1. All roses, except climbing and park roses, need to be well pruned to the top level.

2. The fallen leaves must be removed so that they do not start to rot. In addition, dangerous pests or fungi can hide under them in winter.

3. If there is a need for this, a garter must be performed. Roses need to be covered with a dry frame, pre-covered with plastic wrap, or with heat-insulating material. It is enough to cover some varieties with spruce branches.

4. As for climbing roses, they are afraid of the daytime frosty sun, as well as night cold frosts. Therefore, it is advisable to get rid of such plants from supports and lay them on the ground. Cover with spruce branches from above. For standard roses, you need jute bags or dry leaves. Burlap ribbons should be used to cover the trunks of this type of rose.

Preparing shrubs for winter

- At the end of summer, it is not advisable to feed the plants, they need to be watered well, and in the autumn, they should be treated with those preparations that will reliably protect the shrubs from diseases and pests. With the onset of the first frost, you need to huddle them high.

- If there is a cypress or deytion from ornamental shrubs, then they need to be well tied, wrapped with agrofibre and lowered to the ground, pressed with bricks. When the first snow falls, they need to cover these plants, it will serve as a blanket for them.

- Almost all ornamental shrubs that grow in gardens are not afraid of severe cold weather, but there are varieties that love warmth and protection in winter. Therefore, it is worth covering the near-stem circle of such plants with straw and covering them with foliage.

- Soil cultivation must be done - this is mulching and fertilization. The shrub itself needs to be wrapped tightly enough with burlap or fleece material. It must be remembered that in no case should a film be used in this case, since ornamental shrubs will not survive.

- If there are raspberries and currants in the garden, then around them you need to remove old, sick and weak branches, as well as those that broke in the summer. Next, you need to dig up the soil around them and put humus around the entire perimeter. Thus, next year, you can expect high yields. After that, tie the bushes so that the shoots are strong and they are not broken by a large layer of snow. As for raspberries and blackberries, those bushes that are weak should be covered with dry leaves or spruce branches.

In order for the shrubs to survive severe frosts, the following methods are used:

1. Screens made of polyethylene film, non-woven materials and cardboard, which is specially designed for winter shelters. They need to be pulled on pre-arranged stakes and placed around the plants. It is advisable to pin the screen to the ground so that frosts cannot get in below and drafts do not pass.

2. It is recommended to tie conifers and evergreens, since during severe frosts their branches will not break and be covered with snow. Those who do not have time to knit conifers should constantly make sure that there are no large piles of snow on them.

3. For those shrubs whose buds may freeze in winter, hilling with earth, compost and leaf humus is used. Most often this applies to roses and buddles.

4. Delicate garden dwellers such as yucca, pieris and knifofia, rhododendrons and recently transplanted magnolias must be tied with non-woven fabric. This way they will be well protected. You just need to be careful, too warm a layer will be harmful to plants, as they can vanish.

5. Caring for those shrubs that bloom beautifully is quite simple. Such plants include forsythia, mock orange, spirea, and so on. You just need to remove the weeds and prepare the soil for winter.

In order to ensure the sanitary safety of the site, all those dried flowers, buds and shoots that are cut off must be collected and burned without fail.

As you can see, ornamental shrubs need additional care in the winter. But on the other hand, in the summer, they will delight with their superiority.

In conclusion, it is worth noting that the garden area will only be beautiful and graceful when all ornamental plants, shrubs and trees are well-groomed and blooming.

How to prepare frost-resistant shrubs for wintering

Pruning, hilling, strapping, mulching, shelter

All these troubles are associated with capricious ornamental shrubs. Some gardeners, having worn out with roses and spent a lot of money, finally gave up the desire to enjoy their enchanting beauty and returned to growing more modest, but unpretentious chubushniki, lilacs, spirits, barberries, hydrangeas. After all, in order to huddle and cover roses in time, and in spring to open them in a timely manner, you have to live in the garden, but not everyone succeeds.

Large-leaved hydrangeas are considered simpler in preparation for winter - the most luxurious of all types of hydrangeas.

Their large inflorescences with pink, blue, white flowers bloom on last year's shoots from the apical flower buds.

Therefore, the most important thing is to keep them from frost. To do this, it is enough in the fall, even before frost, to bend the shoots to the ground and press them with boards, covering them with spunbond. They do the same with forsythia, weigela, action, kerria, which also bloom on the shoots that grew last summer.

But there are heat-loving shrubs that can be dealt with even easier.

In this case, shrubs can be grown as herbaceous perennials. That is, in the fall, cut off the aerial part to a height of 10 cm, and in the spring, new shoots that have grown from the base of the stem from dormant buds will form a young bush.

Suitable for such cultivation are only those plants that are able to form shoots from the stump.

It is even better if their root system is more or less frost-resistant. But for a greater guarantee of successful overwintering, it is better to spud the base of the bush with earth or sand.

Among such shrubs there are both flowering, in which inflorescences are formed on newly grown shoots, and simply decorative deciduous.

This is the most stable buddley in our conditions, but even it almost always freezes. Budleia plants planted on a stump, with sufficiently good care, grow to a height of about a meter and bloom beautifully in the second half of summer.

The non-varietal form hibernates quite normally in the middle lane, growing up to 2 meters or more, but the purple-leaved, variegated and golden-leaved varieties freeze severely. After strong pruning, their shoots grow up to 60-80 cm long and even have time to bloom.

There are many winter-hardy species, but modern highly decorative hybrids freeze a lot. Cut in the fall on a stump, the plants winter well, and in the summer neat bushes up to 60 cm high are formed from the shoots growing from the base.

Sometimes you can even observe flowering, but in these forms the main decorative feature is not flowers, but leaves, which, with this method of growing, only become more beautiful.

Its usual form grows and blooms in the middle lane. But decorative-leaved varieties and those with twisting shoots freeze too much.

Cut on a stump, they recover well, forming spectacular openwork bushes.

Although at the same time they form a strong root growth, the growth of which will have to be limited.

Sumac fluffy (deer-horned, vinegar tree)

It has an excellent openwork crown, fluffy light brown shoots, reminiscent of deer antlers.

The leaves are large, up to 50 cm long, consist of a large number of leaves (up to 30 pieces). Their bright autumn color is very decorative.

Sumac in the middle lane often freezes slightly, but grows well. True, it gives a strong root growth. If this does not frighten, then you can apply this technology to it. Get chic openwork thickets, very spectacular in the fall.

Remember: only those plants whose roots have grown enough and have taken root can be cut onto a stump. And do not forget about the annual feeding of the plants that are pruned to the stump.

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Preparing ornamental shrubs for winter

Most shrubs overwinter without problems. However, there are certain wintering rules for evergreen and newly planted plants. In the north and in the middle lane, in severe winters, shrubs can freeze slightly, and also suffer from cold winds. This affects both their appearance and the quality of future flowering.

To shelter shrubs from frost, the following methods are used:

- screens made of polyethylene film, cardboard or non-woven material intended for winter shelter. Screens are pulled on stakes and installed around the plants. The lower edge of the screen must be pinned to the ground or hilled. This is done in order to avoid drafts.

- binding of conifers and evergreens. In snowy and cold winters, the binding helps the plants to withstand frost and prevents the snow from breaking down the large branches of the conifers. If you did not have time to tie the conifers, then after heavy snowfalls, try to shake off the snow from the branches.

- hilling with earth, compost, leaf humus is used for roses, buddles and some other shrubs, in which the buds can freeze in severe frosts

- tying with non-woven material is usually used for the delicate inhabitants of the garden: yucca, pieris, knifofia, newly planted rhododendrons and magnolias. When tying it, it is important not to overdo it, since with a too thick layer of material, the plant may not freeze, but vanish.

Budleya: preparation for winter and shelter for the winter.

In the spring, you can hardly surprise anyone with a flowering shrub, but not everyone boasts of lilac blooming in the garden in autumn. "Autumn lilac" is popularly called Budleya, a representative of the Buddleja genus, which includes more than 100 species of flowering shrubs and grasses. In the wild, budleys grow mainly in China and in the subtropics of South Africa, America and Asia, but have long been actively introduced into the culture in our country. Their lush inflorescences, in appearance really resembling lilacs, bloom from mid-summer and bloom until the first frost. Small (about 1 cm in diameter) flowers of lilac, lilac, purple-red, orange-yellow or white (depending on the species) exude an amazing honey aroma, reminiscent of the smell of hyacinths and attracting insects from all over the area. Butterflies are especially fond of it, therefore, throughout the entire flowering period, which becomes more abundant after the removal of wilted inflorescences, it is butterflies that become an original addition to the wake-up in the autumn garden.

Later, the colorful flowering of budleia became, perhaps, the main reason for gardeners' interest in this plant. It, like many other exotics, began to be actively cultivated, but the first results soon disappointed admiring fans. As it turned out, budleya is too whimsical to wintering conditions, since in its natural environment it does not have to survive frosts below minus 10 ° C. In our climate, this plant has adapted to "survive" in the form of a semi-shrub: in winter, the aboveground part (up to the root collar) completely freezes near the budlea, but the roots after a successful wintering give a strong growth. During the growing season, young shoots manage to grow up to 1.5 - 2 meters long and even bloom, although, depending on weather conditions, the seeds may not always ripen. However, in Buddleja alternifolia, flowering occurs on last year's shoots and their freezing, naturally, entails non-flowering of the plant and a loss of decorative effect, and prolonged severe frosts often cause the death of the roots of any species of this shrub. Accordingly, cultivation in suitable conditions of the southern climate (greenhouse, botanical garden) or careful preservation in winter is still recommended for budleia with its exotic origin.

Among the popular species, budleys with sultan-shaped inflorescences are considered more tolerant to the conditions of the middle lane, in particular Budleya David (Buddleja davidii) and its decorative forms (Wilson, Vicha and beautiful) and varieties ('Royal Red', 'Peace', 'White Profusion' , 'Pink Delight', 'Nanho Purple'). For the successful cultivation of less hardy, but also quite popular Buddleja japonica (Buddleja japonica), B. alternifolia (Buddleja alternifolia), B. white-flowered (Buddleja albiflora), B. snow (Buddleja nivea), B. Lindley (Buddleja lindleyana), etc. a mild southern climate is recommended.

Successful wintering of this shrub can only be ensured if the planting and care rules are followed. For planting budleys in the garden, they select a sunny, not blown by northern winds, a place with fertile, well-drained soil. This plant is not considered picky about the composition of the soil, but in fertilized and slightly moistened it grows faster and blooms in large inflorescences with a brighter color. When planting, a distance of 2.5 - 3 m is left between the bushes, so that the arched shoots drooping under the weight of the inflorescences grow freely and do not lose their decorative effect too quickly. Only young budleys grown up to 2 - 3 years of age are planted in a permanent place: until this time it is recommended to keep them in a school with soil from turf, sand and leafy earth or humus (1: 2: 2).

Budleys are usually grown from seeds and cuttings. Planting cuttings and sowing seeds is carried out as early as possible, at home, starting even in February, so that the plant has time to prepare for the next winter - to partially complete the growing season. The grown seedlings are dived into separate cups, gradually hardened and planted in a school in May - June. From early sown seeds, budleys with a height of about 70 cm grow by autumn, and some of them already bloom in September. With the onset of autumn cold weather, the leaves on the bushes darken, and the plants need to begin to prepare for wintering. One-year-old budleys for preservation in winter are recommended to be transferred into pots and rearranged in a cool place with a temperature of 10 - 12 ° C or in the basement, since wintering in a room often leads to damage to plants by pests and diseases. In April, cuttings are cut from the budles that have wintered in the basement and planted in a greenhouse, and the plants themselves - in warm soil in April - May. Please note that this method makes it possible not only to preserve the mother bush in sparing conditions, but also to additionally obtain high-quality planting material. For wintering in the basement, you can leave the budleys for 2 - 3 years, before disembarking to a permanent place. This method, of course, requires additional effort and time, but practical experience shows that the root system of the plants preserved in this way does not suffer from unpredictable temperature jumps and severe frosts and they bloom 1 - 1.5 months earlier than those left for wintering in the open ground. ...

Adult buddle bushes are left in the open ground in winter, but they are well looked after first: they are watered in dry weather, the trunks are mulched with compost, and during the bud formation period they are fed with complex fertilizers or ash. Starting from the end of July, any feeding is stopped so that the plant has time to prepare for wintering.

Unfortunately, many gardeners did not have a very good impression of the wake winter outdoors. Some argue that with age, the frost resistance of this dwarf shrub is greatly reduced and after 4 years of successful growth, it falls out. Others believe that organizing a shelter also cannot guarantee a more successful wintering. In addition, often even well-wintered bushes recover very slowly, starting to grow greens only from June, and until that time dry "pruning hemp" look in the garden by no means decorative. However, the successful experience of growing budlei confirms that the loss of the dwarf shrub is often associated only with the wrong organization of wintering.

As soon as the leaves begin to turn black on the weekday (in October - November), the bushes in sunny weather are higher, at least up to the level of the 3rd bud, should be covered with ordinary dry soil. Then cut off, leaving hemp stalks about 20 cm long, and cover with spruce branches. Cover the resulting mound with a wooden box, which, in turn, cover with roofing material or slate (fiberglass). Instead of a wooden box, you can adapt other materials at hand to build a frame (if the bush is overgrown). It is highly undesirable to use film and sawdust in such a shelter, as this leads to damping off of the stems and roots of plants. Obviously, this air-dry shelter is similar to that which is organized for climbing roses, and the more air there is in it, the greater the likelihood of a successful wintering of the budley. From above, the structure is, if possible, additionally covered with snow, and the temperature inside it does not decrease for a long time, which, in combination with the high pruning of the budley, helps it recover much faster after wintering. However, in poorly drained soil, even under such a shelter, plants can dry out.

It should also be emphasized that for planting budleia in conditions that are not too suitable for it, one should focus not on varietal, but on "wild" specimens grown from seeds. Moreover, it is also recommended to buy domestic seeds, ripened in the same "unsuitable" climate. Correctly carried out planting and shelter will help not only preserve such plants, but also successfully propagate them: if you bend the lower thin branch to the ground and spud it along its entire length, then in the spring an shoot will grow from each of its buds and the bush will quickly grow. In a similar way, under the shelter, seeds that have spilled out from the inflorescences not cut off in time can germinate.

As you can see, you can still find an approach to budle, like to any other plant, so you should not, referring to someone's opinion, prejudice it. Try to grow this dwarf shrub yourself and pass on your successful experience to others so that they, too, can admire the budleia bloom enveloped in a cloud of butterflies.

Winter hardiness of the bladder

The shrub has high winter hardiness. In central Russia, an adult vesicle tolerates frosts without needing shelter. In the fall, it is advisable to mulch, add humus, peat, straw. Insulated roots will increase the plant's resistance, and in spring the shelter will play the role of feeding, ensuring health, good growth, and nutrition for the bladder.

In the Arctic Circle, it is desirable to insulate the plant (especially varietal), however, varieties close to wild ones tolerate the conditions of harsh winters well. The main factor is the snow covering the roots.

Young, newly transplanted specimens are more sensitive to cold weather than adult, healthy seedlings. It is necessary to carefully consider the weather forecast and properly prepare the plant for wintering.

Pruning strawberries in autumn

The debate about whether it is necessary to prune strawberry leaves in the fall has been going on for decades and is still not over. From the point of view of supporters of pruning, diseases develop on old leaves and peduncles, harmful insects and spores of fungal diseases can settle, so it is better to remove them, leaving only short stems. Opponents of this position believe that a bush cut for the winter will spend all its strength on the formation of new greenery and go under the snow weakened, which will negatively affect the fruiting of the next season.

In our opinion, the truth, as always, is in the middle: you can either prune the strawberries right after fruiting so that they have time to form new lush greens before winter, or you can start pruning in the fall, but remove only dried and diseased leaves.

The main protection of the bush from frost and winds is lush leaves, so you cannot leave strawberries to winter without foliage.

If you are going to cut the leaves of strawberries in the fall, then take sharp garden scissors or pruning shears, be sure to put on gloves and prepare a container for the leaves - you should not leave them in the garden and in the aisles.

Repaired strawberries are not cut in autumn, only diseased and damaged leaves are removed with the onset of cold weather. This is done very carefully so as not to damage the root system.

How to prepare perennials for winter?

Perennials grow in almost every summer cottage, and hardworking summer residents strive to provide them with the most favorable conditions for their full growth and development. Do not forget about the proper preparation of perennial crops for winter, because if they freeze, you will have to plant new plants, and this will require additional hassle and material costs that could well have been avoided. How to prepare perennials for winter so that it does not catch them by surprise and does not become an unpleasant surprise for them?

Processing and feeding

To survive the winter safely, perennials need to gain strength. That is why, until the first frosts have burst out and their flowers with leaves have not wilted, the plants need to be fed with potash and phosphorus fertilizers - such fertilizers contribute to a significant increase in their frost resistance. And still, all perennials need to be treated for diseases and pests, because only healthy plants are best able to survive the winter. Such treatments are carried out only in dry weather, while it is important to pay close attention not only to the bases of the bushes, but to the soil around them.

We carry out trimming

Perennial plants are able to grow in one and the same place for several years in a row, but at the same time only roots are "long-livers". As for the aboveground parts, their life expectancy usually does not exceed one season - with the onset of autumn, they inevitably dry up and die off, and in the spring new aboveground parts grow from the remaining roots.

All dried leaves and stems must be removed without fail, since, firstly, they prevent perennials from wintering, and secondly, with the onset of spring, they become a serious obstacle to the growth of young shoots. It is important to take into account that the pruning time and its height will be different for each perennial. Only evergreen perennials do not need pruning, however, and in this case, there are also exceptions - if an evergreen perennial is very weak or, even worse, sick, it still does not hurt to prune it.

Don't forget about mulching

Snowless, but at the same time rather cold winters are a very severe test for plants. In order for them to freeze in the absence of snow cover, it is enough for the air temperature to drop to minus eight or minus ten degrees. In order to avoid such troubles, many experts strongly recommend mulching perennials, and this recommendation also applies to cold-resistant plants, because the declared frost resistance of a perennial is not always such in fact. So mulching will be useful even for winter-hardy ferns!

Before the soil has time to freeze, you should stock up on suitable raw materials for mulching and hide it in a dry and warm place. The best mulch is considered to be dry peat, rotted compost or humus, since with the onset of spring they all perfectly fertilize the soil at the same time. Suitable for mulching and moss, mown green manure and garden soil, which are usually mixed with each other (while the proportions can be absolutely any). And plants-lovers of acidic soil will definitely appreciate the mulching with needles of conifers. As for fresh shavings or fresh sawdust, experienced summer residents do not recommend mulching perennials with them - in order for them to become suitable for mulching, they must "mature" (that is, compost). You should not take too small sawdust, as they tend to cake into lumps, as a result of which the soil surface is covered with a fairly hard crust. By the way, it is quite acceptable to add a small amount of sawdust to compost or humus!

And it is extremely undesirable to mulch flower beds with straw, as it will quickly attract all rodents concentrated nearby - first they will eat the straw that attracted them, and then everything that is under it.

More serious shelter

Some perennials need not only mulching, but also a more serious shelter. The most ordinary fallen leaves can become an excellent shelter and, in combination, insulation, but it should be taken only from those trees that are not attacked by the same pests and do not suffer from the same ailments as the sheltered crops. It will not hurt to process the collected foliage and urea - for preventive purposes. And so that the foliage is not blown away by the wind, it is covered from above with spruce branches, reeds or brushwood. By the way, spruce branches are considered the best traditional shelter!

Compliance with these simple rules will surely help perennials to winter more easily and again please their happy owners with exuberant growth and luxurious flowering!

What else needs to be done in autumn for a good wintering of hydrangeas?

In addition to shelter measures for all types of hydrangeas, without exception, on the eve of cold weather, it is good to carry out phosphorus-potassium dressing. I use superphosphate and potassium sulfate for these purposes. However, it is important to remember that the application of mineral fertilizers must be completed by the beginning of September. Later use of fertilizers will not bring the desired benefits, since it will not have time to be absorbed by the plant to the required extent. These simple actions will save them from the harmful effects of the cold and will allow you to pass the time without worries until the onset of spring. Information on caring for hydrangeas throughout the season, as well as detailed instructions on pruning different types of hydrangeas can be found on my blog at Instagram @moy_sadik.
I wish you beautiful gardens and luxuriously blooming hydrangeas.

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