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Flowers in August: care and planting, what to transplant and cut

Flowers in August: care and planting, what to transplant and cut


Garden plants

The first half of August is still hot summer, but the second is already the eve of autumn. August in Ukrainian is "serpen" - this month our ancestors reaped bread and reaped the crops grown over the summer, freeing the land from cereals and vegetables so that it could rest until spring. Today's grain growers have no less worries in August.
And flower growers, admiring the hosts decorating the August garden, geykhera, hydrangeas, lungwort, roses, clematis, astilbe, daylilies, work tirelessly, because despite the fact that at the end of summer the heat subsides, for those who work in the garden, the most The "heat" is just beginning.

Gardening in August

What kind of work await florists at the end of summer? While flowers are growing on the flower beds, there is also a need to care for them, so weeding, watering, loosening the soil, removing wilted flowers, feeding and fighting pests and diseases are all the usual procedures, but with minor amendments for the coming autumn.

Roses and grafted shrubs need pruning and release from wild root shoots that have grown over the summer, and this pruning is carried out precisely in late August or early September. At the same time, propagation and transplantation of perennial plants, in particular roses, peonies and lilies, is carried out.

In August, they collect seeds, cut the grass on the lawns, bring out to temper the cuttings grown in the greenhouse (clematis, phlox, roses), and prepare plots for new plantings. And if you want to make dry bouquets that will decorate your home until spring, you also need to do this in August.

Perennial flower care

Watering

Watering the flowers in August is carried out as needed - if there is a heat, then you will have to water more often and more abundantly, if the heat subsides, the soil will not dry out so quickly, and it will have to be moistened less often. In the second half of August, the weather in the mornings and evenings becomes more and more cool, and the need for moisture of plants decreases, therefore, watering should gradually become more rare and less abundant.

At the end of summer, only flowering plants need watering. However, freshly planted or transplanted flowers should be watered almost every day until they take root. After watering, remember to loosen the soil around the plants and remove weeds from the area. If you do this regularly throughout the growing season, there should not be a lot of weeds.

Top dressing

Fertilization in August is necessary for many plants, however, nitrogen-containing fertilizing should be excluded at this time. To help all flowers prepare for the long winter, in the first decade of August, feed gladioli, chrysanthemums, dahlias, asters and other perennials with phosphorus and potassium fertilizers at the rate of 10-15 g of potassium chloride and 15-20 g of superphosphate per m².

If the weather is dry, it is better to apply fertilizing in the form of a solution, soaking the fertilizers in water for half a day or a day. If it is raining or damp, sprinkle flower fertilizer over the surface of the soil and lightly cover it with a hoe. For flowers blooming in late summer or autumn - perennial asters, rudbeckia, chrysanthemums, dahlia - this will be the last dressing.

Annual flower care

How to care for annuals in August

Caring for flowers in August, whether they are annual or perennial, practically does not differ: all flowers need watering, loosening the soil around them, weeding, and removing dried flowers. There is no need to feed annual flowers only. But it is in August that you can provide yourself with high-quality planting material for the next growing season, namely, collect the seeds of annual or perennial flowers that you would like to grow in your garden next year.

Seed collection

It would be possible not to rush to collect the seeds, but it is better not to postpone it until September, because prolonged rains sometimes begin on the very first autumn day, especially since in August the seeds are already beginning to ripen. Look at a few large flowers of the type and variety you need and mark them so as not to accidentally break off, removing wilted flowers. When a seed is formed in place of the flower, put a gauze bag on it so that the ripe seeds do not fall out on the ground, and wait for them to ripen.

If lingering dampness strikes, you can cut the seed pod and dry it in a dry, ventilated room. After opening the box, shake the seeds out of it and dry them on a sieve, and then pack them in paper bags and be sure to sign. However, do not forget that not all species and varieties retain species and varietal differences during seed propagation, and the seeds of F1 hybrids (heterotic hybrids), as a rule, are either sterile or not viable.

Planting flowers in August

What flowers are planted

Not all flowers can be planted in late summer or autumn, but there are perennials and species grown as biennial plants that prefer autumn planting. These flowers include Chinese carnation, stock-rose (mallow), phlox, viola, forget-me-not, rudbeckia, garden bells and daisies, daisies, clematis, muscari, crocuses and delphinium.

How to plant flowers

It is better to sow biennials in June-July, and in August it is high time to plant seedlings that have matured in greenhouses to a permanent place. At the end of August, bulbous and small-bulbous plants are planted, and those perennials are sown, the seeds of which, during storage, lose their germination - for example, a bathing suit or a lumbago. Spill the prepared bed well before planting. Pre-mix small seeds with dry peat or sand and sow them to a depth of 2-2.5 cm, and sprinkle on top with light soil mixed with humus. Cover the crop with foil prior to germination, protecting it from birds and rapid soil drying.

Flower transplant in August

What flowers and at what time to transplant

In August, you can start dividing and replanting primroses, lilies of the valley, lilies, alissums, armeria, delphiniums, daisies, saxifrage, peonies, phlox and irises. Delphiniums and primroses need to be divided and planted every two years, otherwise they will simply disappear. Primroses are divided and transplanted in the first decade of August, and peonies are transplanted in the second.

In the third decade of August, bulbous flowers are divided and planted. Lilies are divided and transplanted every 4-5 years, and it's time for this in late August or early September. All of these flowers have already faded by this time and are in a state of dormancy. Plants planted in August, after being hardened in the ground in the harsh winter months, boldly start growing in the spring.

How to transplant flowers

Rhizome flowers are dug out of the ground, the soil is washed off them with water from a hose, and the rhizome is broken or cut into pieces so that each of them has renewal buds. Cuts and fractures are rubbed with dry ash or charcoal, but you can treat the wounds with a solution of any copper-containing preparation.

Bulbs of lilies, tulips, daffodils and other similar plants are removed from the ground and, if the underground part has grown strongly, they divide the nests of the bulbs, cut the cuts and plant them - new plants will bloom next year. If you find baby bulbs on the stem above the base, separate them and plant them for growing in order to get a full blooming lily in two to three years.

In August, the cuttings rooted in the greenhouse begin to harden, removing the shelter from them for several hours, gradually increasing the hardening time so that after two weeks the film can be removed completely.

Cropping flowers

In August, ornamental shrubs such as roses and hydrangeas are pruned, but pruning at the end of summer is more formative - the main pruning was done in the spring, and now your only task is to maintain the shape of the bush before the fall sanitary pruning. Pruning a grafted rose is complicated by the fact that in addition to removing excess, weak and damaged shoots, it is necessary to cut out small root shoots, which are unlikely to have time to grow so much and get stronger before winter so that flowers will form on it next year.

Professionals recommend not cutting wilted rose flowers in August, so as not to provoke the growth of young shoots, which also will not have time to grow by winter.

Caring for flowers after flowering

After the annual flowers have faded, it is better to remove them from the site, but if you intend to collect seeds from annuals, leave a few copies to ripen, and remove the rest. It is better to burn the plant residues of annual plants.

You can also collect seeds from perennial flowers, and then, after waiting for natural wilting, cut off the ground part of herbaceous plants, and spud the bushes high with soil. Some plants need shelter for the winter, some hibernate normally without shelter, but it is too early to think about preparing plants for winter in August.

Literature

  1. Information about Garden Plants

Sections: Garden plants Gardening


Anthurium

The Anthurium plant is part of the Aroid family, and most of the species of this genus are epiphytic plants. Among anthuriums there are also vines, herbaceous plants and semi-epiphytes. Under natural conditions, such a plant is mainly found in South and North America in the subtropics and tropics.

The name of anthurium consists of two Greek words "anthos", which means "flower", and "oura" - "tail". This is due to the structure of the flower, the fact is that it is represented by an ear with a blanket leaf. The flower can be painted in various shades, for example: white, blue, red and others. Leathery leaf plates can be dissected or whole, with a pattern or one-color, large or small (depending on the species and variety).

In the Aroid family, anthurium is one of the most popular plants in culture. At the same time, it is cultivated both at home and in the open field, and it is also grown specifically for cutting. As a result of the work of breeders, more than a hundred different hybrids of this plant were born. In indoor conditions, anthurium is cultivated both as an ornamental deciduous and as a flowering plant.


1. The choice of planting material

I hope you read with interest the previous article on white acacia, and many people wanted to grow this amazingly beautiful plant in their summer cottage. This is what will be discussed in detail in this publication.

When buying a white acacia, pay attention to the appearance of the seedling: its trunk should be small and not too thin, with beautiful branching, and the root system should be dense, compact, well-developed. If the plant is offered in a container, you need to make sure that it is actually grown in it, and not planted there shortly before sale.

It is not difficult to determine this by one of the most characteristic signs: if the acacia seedling originally grew in this container, then the roots of the plant will look out through the drainage holes of the container.

Seedlings in containers, that is, with a closed root system, can be planted at any suitable time. It is not worth delaying planting white acacia only in autumn: when the soil becomes too cold and wet, there is a risk that the roots may rot.

Plants with bare roots are best planted in the spring before the buds are full. It is possible in late summer - early autumn, as soon as the heat subsides.


Chrysanthemum wintering

Therefore, the spherical chrysanthemum multiflora hibernates in a cool and dark room.

Of course, it is important to ensure that the basement or cellar is not too damp, but also that the soil with the roots of the mother liquor does not completely dry out (the situation can be corrected by adding a handful of snow to the box).

Chrysanthemum multiflora can hibernate in the open field only in the south, and some varieties hibernate in Kharkov, however, it is necessary to provide an easy shelter that excludes freezing.

But, it is necessary to monitor and remove the shelter when the snow melts so that the plant does not get wet. For chrysanthemums overwintering in the open field, they can be planted in drained soil (loose or moisture-consuming).


How to care for daylilies

These are not too demanding flowers to care for, but correctly performed agrotechnical measures will help to grow them healthy, which is the key to decorativeness. Daylily care differs depending on the season. It also depends on the type of soil in the flower garden: sandy and sandy loam soils suffer from drying out in the heat, nutrients are washed out of them faster, which means that you will have to water the daylilies and feed them more often in this case, and care will require more effort.

Watering and feeding daylilies in spring and summer

Daylilies are quite drought-resistant: their roots are well developed and capable of accumulating moisture. In different periods of the growing season, the need for water for these flowers is different, as is the care. They especially need watering during the flowering period, which is almost 2 months. Just wetting the topsoil is not good. It should be moistened to the entire depth of the roots - 30-40 cm. Therefore, the daylilies are watered less often after planting, once a week, if there is no heavy rain, but very abundantly - a bucket or more per bush. Which way to choose, under the root or by sprinkling, it is up to the grower to decide. It is believed that water caught on the petals of daylilies contributes to the appearance of spots on them, which reduces decorativeness.

The most demanding of moisture is the red daylily species. Frequent watering should be included in caring for it.

Correct care is impossible without top dressing. The rates, timing of fertilization and their composition depend on the age of the daylilies and the season. Mature shrubs have more nutritional requirements for grooming than newly planted daylilies, provided the planting pits are well filled. At the beginning of the growing season, the preponderance in the composition of fertilizers should be on the side of nitrogen - it will help to grow the leaf mass faster, in the future the plants need more phosphorus and potassium.

You can give the following recommendations for care

  1. Caring for daylilies in spring begins with feeding with complex fertilizer with microelements, diluted according to the instructions, usually 2-3 tbsp. l. 10 liters of water. For a young bush, 0.5 liters of solution is consumed, for an adult - 1 liter. You can simply spread the fertilizer over the soil surface and close it up with loosening. Spring feeding of daylilies is carried out when the leaves have reached a length of 10 cm, and the air temperature is not lower than + 6-8 ° С. If daylilies are planted this spring, caring for them excludes the first feeding - they already have enough nutrition.
  2. The second top dressing is similar to the first, falls on the end of May, and in the southern regions in the middle of the month. It is combined with foliar feeding with a solution of magnesia 15 g per 10 l of water. This nursing operation is necessary to avoid magnesium deficiency. To avoid leaf burns, 5 g of urea is added to this amount. Foliar dressing is carried out in cloudy calm weather.

Pruning

Daylilies need pruning in the spring and fall. As soon as new shoots hatch, the old withered leaves are carefully cut off. In the fall, you should not rush to pruning, even if the bush does not look very attractive. Experienced growers generally do not advise to carry out autumn pruning. Even in a part of green leaves, the process of photosynthesis continues, which means that nutrients are supplied to the roots and the plant will better endure the winter. And the dried leaves themselves are a good shelter from frost. Caring for daylilies also involves pruning faded stems.

Preparation for wintering

It begins at the end of summer, when the daylilies are fed with potash fertilizers. They are responsible for frost resistance. Species daylilies do not need shelter. Deciduous ones require thorough mulching with peat or straw, and semi-evergreen and especially evergreen daylilies require additional cover with spruce branches.


Versatile application in landscape design

Delphinium is versatile in application - suitable for various types of gardens:

  • rural,
  • eastern,
  • naturalistic,
  • forest.

Larkspur garden hybrids are a great proposition for rural, English and eclectic gardens.

Tall varieties of larkspur are planted near fences, walls, small objects of architecture. From a few to a dozen are planted on ridges, planting in the background as a background for undersized species.

Low varieties are suitable for random planting in different parts of the flower bed, rabatka. You can grow them in containers as a decoration for balconies, terraces, porches.

Delphiniums of different species are perfectly combined with each other, and with many perennials:

  • peonies,
  • geraniums,
  • lupines,
  • decorative garlic,
  • yarrow,
  • echinacea,
  • helenium,
  • sunflowers,
  • daylilies,
  • chrysanthemums.

Varieties with cornflower blue flowers look beautiful in the company of red poppies, yellow daylilies, pink foxgloves, white daisies. White-flowered varieties should be planted next to yellow rudbeckia, pink echinacea, scarlet lobelia and delicate ornamental grasses. Delphinium can be used to create a one-color flower bed, for example, with only white or blue flowers. Classic combinations with roses look attractive.

Spurs look great alone, in large groups, against the backdrop of a lawn, house walls, fences. You can create lanes along sidewalks and walkways.

Large, tough flowers are suitable for cutting, keep fresh for a long time in a vase. Cultural delphinium (Delphinium cultorum) is used for vases. Flowers should be cut when the inflorescences are half developed. Then they stand in a vase for 3-6 days.

Although delphinium flowers are gorgeous and very showy, they will not stay in the flower bed for too long, so they should be planted among plants that will cover the empty spaces left by the magnificent spur flowers with flowers or leaves.


Watch the video: How to propagate hydrangeas from cuttings:: Grow::